Death Becomes Her: A History of amourning Attire at the Met

Started by Limabeany, November 21, 2014, 10:51:52 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Limabeany

http://www.forbes.com/sites/glendatoma/2014/11/17/at-the-met-death-becomes-a-history-lesson-of-the-fashion-variety/

Quote
For proper "full mourning" dress, only deep and true matte blacks were allowed, in heavy materials such as wool and bombazine (a principal fabric for much of the 19th century). Some silks, like taffeta, poult de soie and moire, were also used but had to be dulled through texture. And while black does have a muting effect, it cannot hide careful attention to cut, detail and trim. One outfit, dated 1861 and displayed from behind, has thin threads of gray woven throughout the skirt, as if someone started sketching gardenias in charcoal. Lace is delicately draped around the shoulders, just sheer enough that the dress's black beads still manage to peek through.

Mourning attire, we learn, reflected the style of the times. Witness the corseted waists of the 1860s, the princess seams of late 1870s fashion or the full gigot sleeves of the 1890s. The point was always modesty, with cues taken from the simplistic dress of nuns in the Middle Ages. Still, there are some spectacular pieces.

The transition away from the rigid constraints of mourning attire in the latter half of the 1800s is perhaps the most interesting part of the entire exhibit. That is when black started to become more prevalent in everyday style (new chemical dyes lowered costs). Yes, black is classic and tasteful but let's not mince words—it is also provocative. This is a paradox that the show does not ignore. An excerpt, from Robert De Valcourt's "The Illustrated Manners Book" (1855), points out that "Black is becoming: and young widows, fair, plump, and smiling, with their roguish eyes sparkling under their black veils are very seducing." She wasn't a girl of pure and virginal white anymore.

The late 19th century saw not only an abundance, but the acceptance of the color as normal fashion.

But it was the beginning of World War I that marked the end of mourning attire. Tradition, which had loosened with every passing year, had finally become impractical and turned personal.
"You don't have to be pretty. You don't owe prettiness to anyone. Not to your boyfriend/spouse/partner, not to your co-workers, especially not to random men on the street. You don't owe it to your mother, you don't owe it to your children, you don't owe it to civilization in general. Prettiness is not a rent you pay for occupying a space marked 'female'." Diana Vreeland.

In All I Do

Thanks for posting this. I'm sad I'm not close enough to NYC to go to the exhibit because it sounds fascinating.

Limabeany

"You don't have to be pretty. You don't owe prettiness to anyone. Not to your boyfriend/spouse/partner, not to your co-workers, especially not to random men on the street. You don't owe it to your mother, you don't owe it to your children, you don't owe it to civilization in general. Prettiness is not a rent you pay for occupying a space marked 'female'." Diana Vreeland.

cate1949

that looks like a spectacular exhibit.   One of the things about the old mourning traditions that I think we have lost is that it gave the person a lot of space to grieve - whereas now we want it all over with quickly.  Even funerals are becoming less elaborate - no more or very brief wakes.  I hear people say all the time - oh she needs to move on or get over it - but then it was expected that there would be a long period of grief.  Furthermore - the black clothing and the arm bands even black bands on ones wedding ring - they signaled to others that you were in mourning and so you did get that space and a certain comfort or consideration from others.

Curryong

Quote from: cate1949 on November 23, 2014, 08:25:47 AM
that looks like a spectacular exhibit.   One of the things about the old mourning traditions that I think we have lost is that it gave the person a lot of space to grieve - whereas now we want it all over with quickly.  Even funerals are becoming less elaborate - no more or very brief wakes.  I hear people say all the time - oh she needs to move on or get over it - but then it was expected that there would be a long period of grief.  Furthermore - the black clothing and the arm bands even black bands on ones wedding ring - they signaled to others that you were in mourning and so you did get that space and a certain comfort or consideration from others.

Yes, I agree people were allowed to mourn then, though Queen Victoria certainly took it to another level! However, there was a bit of gender inequality involved. Women were supplosed to wear mourning for husbands, fathers, brothers for a minimum of two years. Widowers could whisk the black armband off after twelve months.

snokitty

People should mourn in their own way but they should not mourn for a long period of time. It is detrimental to their mental well being.

Life is for the living and no matter what happens in one's life the Sun keeps on rising the next day.

Of course they will remember their loved one forever but it should be put into it's proper perspective.
"Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too"      Voltaire

I can see humor in most things & I would rather laugh than cry.    Snokitty


Trudie

I think maybe I will go see it while doing some Christmas shopping. :xmas17: This should be interesting to see.